Roto Fly Frequently Asked Questions

"Why does a fly tier need a fly rotator?"

Although we'd love for every fly tier in the world to need and own a Rotofly, unfortunately many do not. The need for a rotator usually arises as the flies being tied grow larger and/or when they are used for saltwater, especially where stick-on eyes are applied. Since saltwater flies seem to take the abusive side of fly fishing, the heads made need to endure more. This is where epoxy or similar coatings come into play. With a cured coating of hard epoxy, most flies will outlast the hook they're tied on. And, since we're coating the flies we might as well apply the best looking eyes underneath that coating and achieve the professional results that you find on so many store bought flies. Make sense, we thought so and that's where the Rotofly came from. Just a need for better, extremely durable and fish catching flies, especially for saltwater!

"Why not just make a rotator from some rotisserie motor or something?"

Well, this is probably the most popular question with regards to purchasing the Rotofly. Truthfully, you could do this as have many of our customers, but unfortunately most people find out too late that they have spent just as much making it, if not alot more. And, they get all the unwanted benefits too, like:

• A true fire hazard (don't leave home without it!) AC type motors do heat up and burn out.
• Noise from motor is driving you or those around you crazy! No more quiet tying space.
• When attaching flies to your device you'd better be quick as the motor has no stall time. Good luck!
• The foam you ran all over town to find is falling apart very quickly. Now what?
• Since the contraption is so large, maybe I could buy another piece of furniture to put it on. More shopping!

"How does your competition's device compare?"

In my opinion the competition uses the wrong rpm on his motor. Too slow for me. When applying a thirty (30) minute epoxy (which most professionals I know use,) the epoxy has too much time before revolving and starts to drip or sag. Also, the battery usage is terribly short, especially for the cost per battery involved and the longevity achieved. As far as the disc that's being used, no comment is about the best I can say.

"What is the difference between five (5) minute and thirty (30) minute epoxy?"

Five minute epoxy does have it's place. When you need a quick set for a certain design, such as an epoxy shrimp or surf candy fly which you may be setting by hand while holding the remaining tag end of material. That's fine and sometimes the only fix. Just be careful which brand you use as most 5 minute epoxies (cure too fast for quantities of flies) and many will turn yellow over time.

Personally, I prefer a 30 minute epoxy. The advantages are numerous. One, for the amount of epoxy being used you normally can coat many time more flies. Second, the viscosity of 30 minute epoxy allows for a smoother and finer cured finish. Also, most 30 minute epoxy won't turn yellow.

"What tool do you use for applying the epoxy?"

I know many people use tooth picks and mix on paper, cardboard, etc.. I find too much time wasted in achieving a good mixture. If the two parts don't mix well or you've grabbed an amount not thoroughly mixed then your coating will not cure correctly or at all (see fix below.) To efficiently mix (as my time is really valuable) I use a cheap stainless steel dental tool I found at a flea market. As a mix container I use and recommend the caps from gallon water jugs that we drink around the house (we prefer distilled as it's better for the kidneys.) The edge of the cap is perfect for securing the right amount and the end of the tool is perfect for shoveling and turning over the epoxy as the cap is rotated and the epoxy parts mixed.

Also, the tool end which resembles a flat, semi-pointed shovel, allows for an appropriate amount to be grabbed quickly from the cap and the tool is then spun in my fingers to seperate the epoxy on the tool from the cap mixture. Doesn't sound like much but it really helps when coating a dozen flies at a squirt.

Regarding the problem mentioned above. If you do end up with a tacky surface on a fly, use Sally Hanson's "Hard As Nails" to recoat the fly.